The Essential Suit Wearing Guide Every Man Needs
A suit can make a man feel infinitely more confident and put-together, and even change the way he thinks. But suits are complicated—just ask Mike Ross. This guide pulls together the essential and most important details how to wear a suit, so you can stop worrying about what you’re wearing and instead focus on climbing the corporate ladder.
- Suit Color
While the cost of a suit might make you want to invest in only one, suits are surprisingly versatile. You definitely need different suits for work versus a wedding, and the color of a suit can say a lot about the occasion. Black suits are mainly for funerals; for everything else, you’ll want something with a little more pizzazz. Charcoal grey and navy blue are more modern and youthful alternatives for work, weddings, and parties.
- Suit Jacket
When buying off the rack, your first check should be the shoulders: if they look too big or you can’t move your arms freely, then it’s the wrong size for you. You’ll want to make sure you can button up the jacket, and be able to reach a hand inside mid-chest—it should feel snug, but not too tight with your hand inside. This little test will make sure you can move around freely without pulling too much at the seams.
Your belt is an important, but often overlooked accessory that can say a lot about you (see how other accessories might be affecting your image). Look for a soft leather in black or brown, depending on the color of your suit and shoes, and make sure it’s not too wide.
Vests can be very sexy when worn right. They can’t be too tight or you’ll look like you’re wearing a corset, so make sure you can breathe and sit comfortably in them. They make a great addition for a formal suit or if you’re simply travelling for meetings and want to stay warm. For a stylish look, keep the bottom button unbuttoned.
Suit jackets have three options for slits in the back: side vents, center vents, or none. A trendy option is double side vents, which lengthens you and can make your waist appear more trim than it is, so it’s a great option for larger physiques. A center vent is great for hiding a larger derrière, and no vent at all gives you a more formal look—albeit, with very little range of motion.
Your tie is usually the most eye-catching detail of your suit, so choose wisely. The color should always be darker than your dress shirt, and be wary of matching it too closely. The width of your tie should match the lapel of your suit for balance, and the length of your tie should reach just a touch past the start of your trousers. As for the knot? Your options are limitless.
Your trousers might be the simplest part of your suit, but so many men can’t seem to get their size right. Trousers should fit wide at the waist and taper down to the ankles with no extra fabric. They should fit above the hips without being able to slide off your body. For most men, pleated fronts are the most flattering with extra fabric allowing for flexibility and comfortable seating. Plain-front trousers are ideal for very lean men, because the pleats will make their trousers look too loose and billowy.